Day 2 to 4 - Kvelia Bua to Røyvik
Wednesday 9th February
We left Nordli at about 1.30pm for the 12km ski along the road to Kvelia-bua. Heavy snow, but that’s a good thing at the moment as it makes skiing on the road possible. If the roads had been scraped clean we would have to empty the pulk and share the 30kg of contents between us. Add to that carrying our skis too and the scenario doesn’t bear thinking about. We arrive at Kvelia-bua (‘Bua’ means ‘small hut’) at about 3.30pm. It consists of a small supermarket, café and gift shop. We are welcomed with free coffee and cake and then shown to the tiny hut beside the shop. It is very cosy inside and we spend a pleasant few hours before retiring to our sleeping bags.
Chillin’ out in the hut at Kvelia-bua
The hut and shop are run by Roland and his wife. The hut is very old, at least 100 years, and used to be in the wilderness some miles away. It was moved only a few years ago to provide a place for hikers to stay. Those doing the NPL stay for free (free coffee etc. at the shop too) others pay 150kr (around £12) pppn.
Thursday 10th February
We all had a really great nights sleep and awoke at 08.00, said our thanks to Roland, and were on our way by 09.45.
Outside the shop at Kvelia-bua Trond and David steadfastly ignore Pulky McPulkface
Mad, impetuous fool that I am, I volunteered to pull the pulk for the first hour.
It’s not as simple as Trond says. Well, it is simple, you just pull. It is not however an inconsiderable weight. It weighs around 30kg (reducing by around 3kg per day as we devour our food rations) and is pulled via a waist belt. A few good pulls and the pulk moves quite easily on the beautifully ploughed snow, but the weight is still ‘there.’ It still takes extra effort. Especially uphill.
We do an hour about pulling young Pulky McPulkface. The first hour is just uphill, so I’m happy when it is time to hand it on to David.
Pulky McPulkface being hauled by Grumpy McGrumpyface (It’s not that bad actually).
It is 15.5km to our next stop. A disused school in Tunnsjø. The journey is pretty uneventful. A lot of snow has fallen and continues to fall throughout the day. We briefly enter Sweden (for about 2 hours) and see our first recreational skidoos, or ski scooters, the instant we arrive at the border. There are 3 of them, very noisy and smelly. I can see why they are banned in Norway. I can imagine they are as irritating as the off road motorbikes that plague the UK countryside.
The temperature is an annoying 0 to -1 degrees C. Annoying because at this temperature the skins on our skis begin to ice up making progress quite tricky.
It takes slightly less than 4 hours to get to Tunnsjø and we arrive quite early, 1.35pm.
We are met at the old school by a local snow plough driver who opens up for us and shows us round. It’s quite a big place and seems to now be used as a village/community facility. It is way more luxurious than we had expected.
Inside the old school at Tunnsjø
Electricity, a kitchen, sofas, beds and even WiFi. We settle in to what probably used to be the staff room. Relaxing on a pink leather sofa that was possibly fashionable back in the 1980’s. It is a little on the cold side (10 degrees C), but it is a darned site warmer than the tent.
To bed early, as usual, at about 8pm.
Shortly after we got into bed we were visited by a couple of the local women who had been entertaining the local kids in another part of the building. They had brought us a flask of coffee and some fresh pastries. We will have them for breakfast. Such kindness.
Friday 11th February - Tunnsjø to Devik Gard
22km ploughed roads. Around -2 degrees C. Mix of sunshine and heavy snow.
The flask of coffee was still warm enough for breakfast and the pastries were delicious once microwaved for half a minute. I drew a little thank you cartoon on the chalkboard from the 3 of us, but forgot to take a photo.
We left Tunnsjø at 8.30. There has been a LOT of snow. It wasn’t snowing when we left, but it was 5 minutes later. Very heavily. The weather settled into a rhythm of sunshine one minute and very heavy snow the next and lasted all day. Mid-morning we had about an hour of lovely sunshine. Beautiful views. Temperature around -2.
From this…
…to this in the space of an hour.
At one point Trond left the road to check out the kind of conditions we will encounter when we do leave the roads. The snow was well over his knees. About 50 cm of deep powder. He thought this was amusing. So did David and I, though we may not be laughing so much when we have to contend with it for whole days at a time. Our progress may reduce to as little as 1 km per hour!
After 22km we came to a small group of houses near the lake. We could smell smoke so knew someone was home. Tonight was supposed to be a night in the tent. However, Trond knocked on the only door for miles around and a lovely lady, Oddbjørg Devik is her name, offers us the use of a couple of spare rooms in her basement. She is nearly 80 and yet still comfortable to open her doors to 3 strange men. I almost feel bad that the TV is on and England are beating Norway at curling.
As you approach the house along the road each tree has a bird box put up by Oddbjørg. She also feeds the birds at the back of her house and we are treated to the comings and goings of bullfinches, great tits, blue tits and even some tiny coal tits. She told me all the names in Norwegian. The tits all end in ‘meis’ like ‘blåmeis’ (blue tit), puggmeis (great tit) etc. Icicles hang from the eaves above the feeder and the birds cling on for a drink.
Eurasian Bullfinch (Bjørn to his friends)
The large lake, (Limingen) we have skied alongside for much of the day has been making me edgy as it is completely devoid of ice. It is inky black and very cold looking. It is also only 50m lower than the lake we need to ski across in 2 days time. My mind is put at rest when we are told that it is a regulated lake. The level goes up and down regularly meaning ice doesn’t form until much later in the month. The other lakes we are assured (ours included) are definitely frozen.
It is a real shame that only Trond can chat to Oddbjørg. She is lovely. If I could choose a super power, after flying, I think that I would like to be able to speak all languages.
We spent an embarrassingly relaxing (we are supposed to be on a tough expedition!) afternoon and evening chatting and watching Norwegian TV (what else!?). We eat our dehydrated dinners and Oddbjørg provides us with coffee and some lovely sweet flat breads.
9.30pm to bed (a late night!) , but only 16km on the road tomorrow, so no need to rush to get up in the morning.
Saturday 12th February - Devik Gard to Røyrvik
We left Oddbjørg at 9.30am. She absolutely refused to take anything from us for putting us up. Such a lovely lady.
Today conditions were about as good as they can ever get. -2 degrees, sunny/cloudy skiing on 1/2cm of snow on ploughed roads. Beautiful views.
Stunning views across lake Limingen
Would you believe that before I took this photo, they both insisted on checking their hair!?
He’s behind you!
Me and Pulky get caught up in the Røyrvik rush hour (Downhill!).
We have had a really easy time of it these last few days. There are however constant reminders of what is to come. Trond spoke to a local who hadn’t seen so much snow for 30 years. To underline this, when we arrived at Røyrvik there are people shovelling snow off their roofs to stop them collapsing under the weight.
A whole new meaning to clearing the snow.
Tonight we are staying at the wonderful Limingen Gjestergård at Røyrvik. Great place, wonderful food.
This has been a long blog. Thank you for taking the time to follow my ramblings. Our journey is about to get much tougher.
The weather looks good, but the snow depth is going to be challenging. Starting tomorrow we have 72km over the Børgefjell. We will be out of contact, so no blog or Instagram for at least the next 4 days, but you can still follow our progress by clicking on the map link on the website home page.
So far I am feeling good. As I believe are David and Trond. With the tent, pulk and additional supplies we are confident that we can grind out any difficulties without the need to destroy ourselves in the process. Confidence is high in the team. Long may it continue.
See you on the other side…
