Day 59 - Nordkapp
Thursday 7th April
Well, we made it.
Nordkapp
At 14.55hrs on Thursday 7th April 2022 and after 59 days and 1380 kilometres we finally arrived at Nordkapp.
At 71 degrees north Nordkapp (or North Cape) is at the northern extremity of Europe. The monument you see in the photo above lies atop top the cliffs that drop, almost vertically, 307 metres into the Barents Sea. There is also a visitor centre, but more about that later.
We were dropped off near the final tunnel just outside Honningsvåg, Norway’s northernmost city (but don’t tell anyone from Hammerfest. They get upset), and started walking at 07.45.
Yes, walking. Not skiing. Whilst it is possible to ski across to Nordkapp from Honningsvåg the route is, not just convoluted, but also very, well, up and down. Even ski scooter users recommended walking and they think everything is flat. We also don’t need, tent, sleeping bags, cooking kit etc. so Pulky has been given the day off and we (foolishly) decided to carry one heavy rucksack rather than two light ones. We both silently and in my case, not so silently, cursed that decision every time it came to taking a turn carrying the damn thing.
LeavIng Honningsvåg Trond quickly discovers the error of his ways as he gets to carry the rucksack for the first hour
Can you remember way back when the distance to Nordkapp was a bit longer? (3rd January 2022)
We quickly left the usual signs of Honningsvåg (mostly snow) and continued along the only road (mostly snow again).
Beautiful views across the fjord back towards Honningsvåg
The island is pretty mountainous and guess who’s turn it was to carry the bloomin’ rucksack when the main climb starts? From sea level to 254 metres (834 ft) me and the rucksack trudged on in Trond’s wake.
There was very little traffic. Predominately snow ploughs that go back and forth 24/7 to keep the road open. Not just one snow plough. We saw at least 5 including those cool ones that sort of drill through the snow.
Trond may be somewhat shorter than the average, but even so, that is one big snow bank
We knew that the visitor centre at Nordkapp was open. But we also knew that it closed at 3pm. We had no expectations of getting there in time to buy a souvenir snow globe and a coffee. However, as our hike continued we realised that we might just, if we got a move on, make it in time for a quick coffee. The race was on…
Getting closer. On the high plateau where the wind howled
It was extremely windy all day, but no snow and decent visibility and from the highest point we could, after 59 days, see the peninsula that was our final destination. Energy sapping descents and ascents still lay before us.
The end is truly in sight (and power cables)
Our hike becomes a route march as we negotiate the often horribly slippery roads.
An extremely brief break in the cloud reveals our final destination
We even saw a couple of sea eagles (white tailed eagles) as they flew quite low overhead. I even managed to get a couple of fantastic photos of the sky just next to them. Imagine an all white photo with a small sign pointing out of the frame saying, “Sea eagle this way.”
Then, finally, our goal hove into view.
Is that what I think it is?
The visitor centre is only open for another 25 minutes. Will we make it? Will we arrive just as the doors are slammed in our faces? Have we skied, walked and sweat blood just to be denied a celebratory coffee?
One happy camper
Nope! We arrive with 5 minutes to spare and the remarkably accommodating staff allow us to not just buy a coffee, but also waffles and let us sit inside for over 1/2 an hour. They even let me dash round the gift shop and buy the compulsory souvenir t-shirt. Two happy campers.
We sit and enjoy our well earned coffee and waffles and wait for Trond’s friend Gauter to arrive.
Now, hiking uses very different muscles to skiing and we walked pretty quickly on tarmac and hard packed snow for over 7 hours. My legs have cramped up. And I thought I was fit. I can barely walk by the time Gauter arrives!
When Gauter arrives we head outside to take some video and photos of our triumphant arrival at the Nordkapp globe. The weather has quickly deteriorated. Heavy snow is added to the high winds. It seems only fitting though that these last moments should be accompanied by all that a north Norway winter can throw at us.
And suddenly it’s all over
Photo shoot over we rush back to the car and head out. There is some concern that the road might close. Visibility is occasionally terrible. However, the weather begins to clear and soon we are on the main road covering distances that have taken us days in just an hour or so.
Our journey is over.
It has been many things; challenging, tough, beautiful, magnificent and downright hard. We have received the kindness of so many people along the the way and seen the beauty of 3 countries in winter. Most of all and most importantly though, it has been fun.
A big thank you
Both Trond and I would like to thank his friend Gauter who drove more than 400 km to collect us from Nordkapp and deliver us to his home in Hammerfest. Also to his wife and family who entertained us and provided us with delicious pizza, chocolate tart, ice cream and champagne. They also kindly spoke in English so that the ignorant foreigner could understand. We are truly grateful.
A very much appreciated touch of luxury at Gauter and Tove’s home in Hammerfest.
Some statistics for those that like that kind of thing;
Total distance traveled (since Nordli): 1,380.4 km
Rest days (due to weather): 5
Rest days because we needed a rest: 0
Total number of days traveling: 59
Total number of skiing days: 54
Average ski distance per day: 23.4 km
There will be more blogs over the following days as I return home and reflect on what we have done. So, do keep your eyes peeled for more and remember to subscribe to the blog.
A huge thank you to all who have followed our journey and thanks also for the supportive comments. It’s been great to know you were there.
