Days 27 to 35 - 7 days in the wilderness
How do I fit 8 days into one short blog? We are at a place called Abisko. Our final day in Sweden before skiing back into Norway. It’s resupply day so there are a lot of things that need doing. So, this can be nothing more than a précis.
SPOILER ALERT! I’m not very good at précis. I advise you make a cup of tea and find a comfy chair. It’s a long one.
If you want to know more about these last days (oh, there’s plenty more) do feel free to preorder the book. I’m looking for suggestions for a title for the book by the way.
Monday 7th March
Ny-Sulitjelma to Sorjushytte
Our toughest day yet and I really hope that we don’t get any harder days.
It is only about 12 km from the Ny-Sulitjelma Fjellstue to the Sorjushytte, but it took us 11.5 looooong hours. Much of it zigzaging up through 40 cm deep snow and navigating in zero visibility. Pulky regularly buried himself in this seemingly bottomless snow making progress excruciatingly slow.
Pulky get stuck in. Again!
Trond looking shorter than usual in the deep snow (changing skins).
Pulky giving an idea of how steep the ground was and how heavy he can be.
Fortunately visibility improved immensely in the last 2 hours as it meant we could see such delights as the corniced edge and drop down to a lake. We traversed above this edge for a while, but someone had clearly forgotten to brief Pulky who decided to go and look over the edge. It was impossible to pull him back so we had to release him. Not a problem though because he will just slide down to the lake. However, because of the flat light we don’t know if the lake is 2 metres below or 100m. It turns out to be about 60 metres and we watch as Pulky shoots unfettered across the lake. It took around 30 minutes to work our way round and down to collect him.
We arrived at the hut well after dark. Just time for a quick meal and bed.
Arriving after dark we pray that we don’t need to chop wood.
Tuesday the 8th March
Sorjushytte DNT to Stáloluokta (Swedish hut)
Another 11 hour day and more deep, deep snow, but less climbing. We cross into Sweden for the first of several days today. Whilst visibility was poor again all morning things brightened up later.
Leaving the Sorjushytte for another morning of terrible visibility and deep snow
We saw more wildlife in this first day in Sweden than we saw over the first few weeks in Norway. At one point we heard what sounded like a dog barking and saw a hound shaped thing running up the hillside several hundred metres away. Dog? Fox? Wolf? Wolverine? Figment of our imagination? Ghost!?
A great little hut we found to eat our lunch in
Later we saw a couple of elk. Then a single reindeer, then another elk. Later still I saw a load of reindeer in the twighlight stood just a dozen metres away. I got very excited. Trond considerably less so. Apparently me getting excited about seeing a reindeer is a bit like someone getting excited about seeing a sheep in Wales.
There was tough final kilometre approach to the hut as it was getting dark. Some weeks ago I wrote on the blog how I had no idea how Trond could ski downhill with a pulk and remain upright. Today, just a few weeks (and a lot of practice) later, I was skiing with Pulky, downhill, through trees in the dark. Who’d have thought eh?
First Swedish hut for the night, the Stáloluokta hut. Nice, but not as nice as the Norwegian ones. Less cosy.
Wednesday 9th March
Stáloluokta to Làddejakka (Sweden)
Yet another big day. Another 11 1/2 hrs. Fantastic weather though. We crossed two mountain passes today and climbed more than 500m in still very deep snow.
Leaving the Stáloluokta hut
Over the first pass we drop down to some cabins at Árasluokta Fjällstuga (mountain cabin). It is also a Sami settlement (the Sami are indigenous people from northern Scandinavia. Often reindeer herders). The settlement is pretty much deserted in the winter. There a number of ‘gamme’ (pr: gaa-may) in evidence. These are traditional Sami homes. Now admittedly beside modern looking cabins. These are rough wood built structures similar in shape to a yurt, with a covering layer of earth, grass and moss, a single wooden door and a chimney. Covered in snow at this time of year they look like something out of a star wars film. I’d love to see inside one.
A snow covered gamme (For those with poor eyesight, it’s on the left)
A Gamme not covered in snow (taken a few days later).
Thursday 10th March
Làddejakka to Akkastugorna (Sweden)
A mere 9 hours on the move today. Predominately on ski scooter trails. Plus 2 - 3 degrees centigrade temperatures made the snow very sticky and we eventually took the skins off them, which made the going a lot easier.
Some very friendly locals off out to collect wood (and make a lovely trail for us to ski in)
Our aim today is to ski 34 km to Akkastugorna cabins. These are full service cabin so apparently it serves food. All the incentive we need.
We arrive at the cabin at 16.15, a good hour before we had expected, driven on by the promise of a full service hut. What will we order for dinner? Will there be a shower?
We were greated by the hut custodian Kurt with a cheerful “Welcome to paradise.” It was however, not the paradise we had expected. They do not provide food. There is no electricity, or a shower (though there is a sauna!).
Oh, and you know those 6 Mountain huts you are about to visit that you think serve food? Well, none of them do. Cheers Kurt.
I see visions of us (but mostly me) starving to death. We have 5-6 days left till we reach a form of civilisation and we only have 2 days of food left in our supplies.
Bugger!
Fortunately, We find that a couple of the huts do have small shops, including one we pass tomorrow. Yay!
However, the shop is closed between 10.30 and 12 noon. About the earliest we can get there is 10.30 to 11. Boo!
We set our alarms for 5am (Double boo!)and hope to get there in good time.
A lovely chap called Tomas shares the hut (and his Japanese whiskey) with us. Yay!
Tomas demonstrates how to make friends by sharing his whiskey
We spend a lovely evening chatting. I say evening. We are in bed by 9. Remember that pesky 5am alarm.
Friday 11th March
Akkastugorna to Sitasjaurestugorna (Sweden)
The three amigos
You’ll be pleased to hear that we made the shop (and coffee) in time to buy the supplies we need.
First new skis, now new ski poles. Trond adds to his collection of new kit
Today is the first day I have arrived at a hut not utterly exhausted! It amazes me how our bodies are able to take these long days, day after day and still keep going.
Here’s a little tale from today that may amuse you.
We met an older, solo skier from Germany with a pulk and a lovely husky dog. She was not having a great day. She had rented the dog, which she said, was very strong and enthusiastic. However she had no idea how to get it to go left, right, straight on, or just about anything. When we left her she was trying to convince the dog to carry straight on.
First it headed off at 90 degrees to the trail, then it did a 180 turn and headed that way. We could see her trying to communicate her wishes again at which point the dog just looked at her as if to say; “I have no idea what you want me to do.” And sat down. She may still be there. Who knows.
“Left, right, straight on… Make your bloomin’ mind up!
We arrived at the hut very early for us. A luxury. The custodian of the huts, Beatrice, who was incredibly knowledgeable about the areaa seemingly for hundreds of kilometres in every direction, spent a very informative hour looking at maps and discussing route options with us. Thanks Beatrice.
The delightful Beatrice shows Trond the difference between a lake and a mountain
Saturday 12th March
Sitasjaurestugorna to Hukejaurestugen (Sweden)
A glorious day. Not a cloud in the sky. An easy day over a pass to Hukejaurestugen though I certainly drew the short straw for pulling Pulky on uphill sections today.
A rare bit of downhill action for Pulky and me.
We arrived at the hut really early, at 13.45. It is situated at an altitude of 905 metres at the edge of a frozen lake surrounded by low hills. We are greeted at the door by the elderly wardens (who have been doing this for 25 years!). They kindly provided us with warm juice, a flask of coffee and some lovely cinnamon cakes.
Some great advice from the warden. He has recommended a route that will require a long day, but will also save us a day.
Sunday 13th March
Hukejaurestugen to (Sweden)
Another beautiful day. Woke the two French guys with whom we had shared the hut at 5.30 with our clattering, but they didn’t seem to mind. Left the hut at 07.00am and went the wrong way for about 15 mins, but were soon back on track.
We followed ski scooter tracks for about an hour then headed away from them, which was nice aftr days of nothing but ski scooter tracks. These tracks are both a curse and a blessing. They scar the pristine wilderness and polute the air with both fumes and noise. However, they speed our progress and often aid our navigation.
There is a lot less snow here than in Norway and we were able to find a rock to sit on in the sun to eat our sandwich today, which was a bit of a luxury.
Pulky makes friends outside the Alesjaurestugorna
Then an icy ski down to the hut which is very busy. There are multiple huts and the one we are in was nearly full. 4 huts and around 20 people per hut. Not counting a few people in tents using the hut facilities. It’s weird being around so many people after so long in the wilderness. Before today we had seen a mere 5 other skiers on the trail in 32 days.
FINALLY I got to see the northern lights
32 km to Abisko tomorrow. Resupply day, shower and I need to get the blog done, the audio diaries sent, shower, call Mrs P. It will be a busy day.
Monday 14th March
Alesjaurestugorna to Abisco Turistsenter.
Our biggest km day. Yet another beautiful day. Sweden is being very kind to us. Great snow conditions and, about an hour after leaving the hut, we removed our skins and waxed our skis which made progress a bit quicker.
The Swedish scenery is quite different to that we have seen so far. Less snow (still a lot though), so much more rock on show. We ski down a valley passing huge mountains of over 1,755.
After more than a month of practice I demonstrate the art of standing still on skis.
After lunch in the sun outside the Abiscojaura huts there was a horrible icy 45 mins across the lake. A veritable motorway of ski scooter tracks made it impossible to avoid the ice.
After the lake the route improved. The last 5km to Abisco was wearing and the last 1km to the Turistsenter positively soul destroying. So, it was devastating to arrive to find that not only were we at the wrong hotel (not a big problem), but our resupply boxes had not arrived. After a fraught hour we ascertained that the boxes were in Stokholm, stuck in customs. We won’t be seeing them any time soon.
We will take a “rest” day and buy everything thing we need in Abisco. The maps however we can’t replace.
A note on the Abisco Turistsenter hotel: Don’t come here. It is eye wateringly expensive for a very basic room. And I do mean ‘very’ basic.
They have a captive audience here for the northern lights experience with little competition, so charge accordingly.
Nice to get a shower though and I must admit, the restaurant is excellent.
It certainly beats dehydrated pasta
Tuesday 15th March
Resupply and rest day - Abisco Turistsenter
I didn’t sleep well but am bouyed by a good breakfast. I went round the buffet bar at least 3 times. Trond made at least 5 visits! Another beautiful day, so it is very frustrating that we must stay and do shopping.
Downtown Abisco
Mid-morning we walked into town’ (one small, poorly stocked supermarket) and spent over an hour trying to buy the food etc. we need for the next 7 days. We arrived back at the Turistsenter just in time to miss lunch.
Hey ho. At least they will have a room ready for me (I had to change rooms) Nope! The room that was promised at 10 will now not be ready till 3. I am not best pleased. The man behind the desk says, “I don’t understand why you can’t just enjoy the day and wait.” It is very nearly the last thing he ever says.
We go to the hotel shop and buy a sandwich each. A poor substitute for the burger and chips I had been dreaming of. I say to the staff in the shop that I don’t think the man at reception likes me. They both agree that they don’t think he likes anyone. This cheers me up immensely. Afternoon spent packing the pulk, writing the blog and dreaming of dinner.
We have now traveled 723.3km since Nordli and have been in the go for 35 days.
We are more than halfway to Nordkapp and are doing very well. Long may our luck and the weather hold.
Once again, we head info the hills tomorrow. We will be away for another 6-7 days. I will post when I can.
